Child safety charities warn that window falls tend to rise in warm weather, when windows are left open. The good news is that the fix is cheap, quick and easy to live with.

This guide covers the main types, how to fit them properly and the escape-window rules you must respect. It also explains which windows in your home need them first.

What window restrictors do (and the 100 mm rule)

A restrictor limits how far a window opens, usually to around 100 mm. That’s wide enough for ventilation but too narrow for a small child to squeeze through.

The 100 mm figure is widely used in UK safety guidance, including HSE advice for care settings. Many products are also tested to BS EN 13126-5, the standard for devices that restrict window opening.

Good window restrictors need an adult to release them on purpose. In other words, a child shouldn’t be able to undo one by pushing, pulling or fiddling with it.

Restrictors aren’t the same as window locks. A lock keeps a window shut, whereas a restrictor lets it open safely, a little way.

Think of a restrictor as one layer of protection. Supervision, sensible furniture placement and good habits do the rest.

Types of window restrictors

There are five common designs. Which one suits you depends on the window type, the frame and how often you want to open it fully.

Cable restrictors

A steel cable fixes to the frame and clips into a lock on the opening sash. You release it with a key or a push-button. Cable restrictors suit most casement and tilt-and-turn windows, and they’re easy to retrofit.

However, quality varies. Choose a thick steel cable and a proper locking body, not a thin wire that household scissors could cut.

Restrictor hinges

These replace the existing friction hinges on a uPVC casement. The sash stops at around 100 mm, and you press a catch to open it fully. As a result, there’s no key to lose and nothing to forget.

Some versions also double as easy-clean hinges, so you can clean the outer glass from inside. That said, they carry the weight of the sash, so fitting matters.

Arm and catch restrictors

A hinged arm or hook links the sash to the frame. They’re simple and cheap. Even so, check they’re genuinely child-resistant, because some basic catches lift off easily.

Sash window stops

For sliding sash windows, timber or uPVC, small stops fit into the frame to limit travel. Most are removable with a key when you want the window fully open.

Tilt-and-turn controls

Tilt mode opens the top of the window inwards, which already gives safe ventilation. To stop a child turning the window fully open, fit a locking handle or a cable restrictor for turn mode.

Which windows need window restrictors first?

If you can’t do every window at once, start where a fall would be most likely and most serious:

• Upstairs windows a child can reach, especially with a low sill.
• Windows above beds, cots, sofas, desks or toy boxes.
• Landing, stair and loft conversion windows.
• Ground-floor windows above a drop, steps or a basement well.
• Bedrooms where grandchildren or visiting children sleep.
• Rented rooms and holiday lets.

Low sills are the big risk. As a rule of thumb, a sill lower than about 800 mm is easy for a child to climb over. For new building work, guidance also treats such upstairs windows as needing guarding.

Furniture matters just as much. A bed or chest under a window turns a high sill into a low one, so move climbable furniture away first.

If you let property, falls from windows are one of the hazards councils assess under the Housing Health and Safety Rating System. Restrictors are a quick, low-cost way to reduce that risk.

Escape windows: restrictors must not trap you

This is the part people often miss. Some upstairs windows, particularly in bedrooms and loft rooms, are designed as emergency escape windows in a fire.

Approved Document B sets out what an escape window needs. In short, the clear opening should be at least 0.33 m², at least 450 mm high and 450 mm wide. Also, its bottom edge should be no more than 1,100 mm above the floor.

The guidance still allows locks and stays on escape windows, provided the stay has a release catch. That catch can be child-resistant.

What that means in practice

• On an escape window, choose a restrictor an adult can release in seconds, in the dark.
• Restrictor hinges with a catch and push-button cable restrictors both work well here.
• If a restrictor uses a key, keep the key near the window but out of a child’s reach.
• Make sure every adult in the house knows how each restrictor releases.
• Once released, check the window still opens to its full escape width.

How to fit window restrictors properly

A restrictor is only as good as its fixings. On uPVC, screws need to bite into solid material, ideally the metal reinforcement inside the frame, or at least the full uPVC wall.

1. Check the window type, the frame material and which way the sash opens.
2. Choose a position on the opening side of the sash, where the gap is widest.
3. Hold the restrictor in place and open the window to check the gap is 100 mm or less.
4. Pilot-drill, then fix with the screws supplied, or longer ones if they don’t grip.
5. Push hard on the open sash; nothing should shift, flex or pull out.
6. Test the release yourself, then check a child can’t work it.

Avoid stick-on restrictors for any window that matters. Adhesive pads can let go, especially on a sunny frame.

DIY or professional fitting?

Cable restrictors are a reasonable DIY job if you’re handy with a drill. However, restrictor hinges replace the existing hinges and carry the sash. A badly fitted hinge can let the sash drop or, upstairs, come loose.

For that reason, hinges are best fitted by someone who does it every day. We fit restrictors and uPVC hinges as part of our window repair work, often alongside other small jobs at the same visit.

Living with restrictors day to day

• Cleaning: release the restrictor, clean the glass, then re-engage it straight away.
• Hot weather: open several restricted windows rather than one wide one, and keep trickle vents open.
• Monthly check: look for frayed cables, loose screws or a catch that releases too easily.
• Older children: explain why the restrictors are there, and never show them how to release one.

If a restrictor works loose or a hinge starts to sag, get it looked at quickly. Our window locks and handles service covers the hardware around it too.

What window restrictors cost

Restrictors are among the cheapest safety upgrades you can make. Typical UK prices in 2026 look like this:

• Cable restrictors: typically £8–£25 each for the part.
• Restrictor hinges: typically £30–£70 per pair for the parts.
• Fitted by a professional: typically £40–£120 per window, with hinges at the upper end.
• Several windows at one visit: usually cheaper per window than separate trips.

Fitting restrictors during another repair, such as a misted unit or a new handle, is usually the cheapest way to do it. That’s because the visit is already booked.

Prices rise for unusual window systems, very large sashes or old hinges that need cutting out. Also, if the frame is damaged where the restrictor fixes, a repair may be needed first.

Other child safety checks around windows

Restrictors deal with the opening itself. Still, a few other window hazards deserve a look while you’re at it:

• Blind and curtain cords: looped cords are a strangulation risk, so use cleats or cord tidies, well out of reach.
• Insect screens: these won’t hold a child’s weight, so never treat them as a barrier.
• Low glazing: glass near the floor should be safety glass if it’s ever replaced.
• Locking handles: these keep windows shut when you’re out of the room.
• Keys: store them near each window but out of reach, never lost in a drawer.
• Juliet balconies: check the rail or glass is firmly fixed before summer, when doors stay open.

The Royal Society for the Prevention of Accidents publishes practical home safety advice for families, including window and blind cord safety.

Quick answers

Are window restrictors a legal requirement?

For most private homes, no. However, new building work must meet guarding rules, landlords can be required to deal with fall hazards, and care settings follow stricter guidance.

Will restrictors affect ventilation?

A 100 mm gap still lets plenty of air in. Trickle vents help as well. So, you can keep rooms fresh without opening windows wide.

Can you fit restrictors to sash windows?

Yes. Sash stops limit how far the sliding sash travels, and most remove with a key. They suit both timber and uPVC sashes.

Do window restrictors stop burglars?

They aren’t designed as security devices. That said, a locked cable restrictor does make a small opening harder to use. For security, rely on proper window locks.

Can tilt-and-turn windows have restrictors?

Yes. Tilt mode is already a safe way to ventilate. For turn mode, fit a cable restrictor or a locking handle so a child can’t swing the window wide open.

Keeping children safe at the window

Window restrictors are cheap, discreet and easy to use, and they remove one of the most serious risks in a family home. Start with upstairs rooms and low sills, move climbable furniture, and always keep escape windows quick to release.

We fit restrictors throughout the area, from window repairs in Normandy to Pirbright. See our areas we cover page for every village, or read more about our team.

The post Window Restrictors and Child Safety: Types, Fitting and Use first appeared on Windows & Doors Repair Guildford.

This toughened vs laminated glass guide explains how each type is made and where the rules call for safety glass. It also covers which one suits doors, low windows, roofs and security, plus what the upgrade typically costs.

It’s general guidance for homeowners. So, for unusual glazing such as balconies or structural glass, always check the specific product with a glazier.

Toughened vs laminated glass: the difference in brief

Standard window glass is called annealed or float glass. When it breaks, it forms long, sharp shards. That’s acceptable high up in a window, but dangerous anywhere people might fall against it.

Toughened glass

To make toughened (or tempered) glass, the factory heats it to over 600°C and then cools it quickly with jets of air. This locks tension into the glass, making it roughly four to five times stronger than float glass of the same thickness.

When it does break, it crumbles into small, blunt-edged pieces. As a result, it’s far less likely to cause a serious cut.

Laminated glass

Laminated glass is two or more sheets bonded together with a tough plastic interlayer, usually PVB. When it breaks, the fragments stick to that layer.

So the pane cracks like a spider’s web but stays in the frame. In short, toughened glass is about strength and safe breakage, while laminated glass is about staying in one piece.

Where the rules require safety glass

In England, glazing safety falls under Part K of the Building Regulations. Approved Document K defines “critical locations”, where glass should break safely, be robust enough not to break, or be protected.

The critical locations are:

• Door glass, from floor level up to 1,500 mm.
• Side panels within 300 mm of either edge of a door, up to 1,500 mm.
• Walls and partitions, including windows, from floor level up to 800 mm.

Toughened and laminated glass can both meet the safe-breakage requirement. Safety glass normally carries a small etched mark in one corner showing the standard it was made to.

Good practice is to fit safety glass whenever you replace a pane in a critical location, even if the old one wasn’t. A reputable glazier won’t put ordinary float glass back into a door.

Places people often forget

• Low panes in bay windows and full-height windows.
• Glass beside a staircase or on a landing.
• Internal glazed doors and glass partitions.
• Conservatory walls where the glass runs close to the floor.
• Glass near a bath or shower, where people slip.

Toughened glass: strengths and limits

Toughened glass is the standard choice in most uPVC doors, patio doors and low windows. It’s strong, it copes well with heat, and it’s usually the cheaper safety option at common sizes.

However, it has limits. It can’t be cut, drilled or trimmed after toughening, so every pane is made to exact size in the factory. That means a glazier measures your opening, orders the unit and returns to fit it.

When toughened glass breaks, the whole pane goes at once. This leaves an open hole until it’s boarded or replaced, which is a drawback for security.

Very occasionally, toughened glass also breaks for no obvious reason. This is often due to a tiny nickel sulphide inclusion in the glass. It’s rare in homes, and heat-soak testing reduces the risk further on specialist glass.

How to spot toughened glass

First, look for the etched mark in a corner, which often refers to BS EN 12150. Also, with polarised sunglasses you may see faint patterned “quench marks” across the pane.

Laminated glass: strengths and limits

Laminated glass shines wherever a broken pane must stay put. It holds together when struck, slows down forced entry and typically blocks around 99% of UV light, which helps protect floors and furniture from fading.

There are acoustic versions too. These use a special interlayer that reduces noise noticeably more than standard double glazing.

That said, standard laminated glass isn’t as strong as toughened against a hard knock. It cracks more easily, but the crack stays in place. Common thicknesses in homes are 6.4 mm and 6.8 mm.

A cracked laminated pane still needs replacing. However, it’s rarely an emergency, because it keeps out weather and intruders until the new unit arrives.

Security grades

Laminated glass can be graded for attack resistance under BS EN 356. Classes P1A to P5A come from ball-drop tests, while P6B to P8B involve axe attacks. Most homes don’t need anything beyond the lower grades.

Which you need where: a room-by-room guide

For most people, the toughened vs laminated glass choice depends on location. Here’s how glaziers usually approach it.

Can one unit have both?

Yes. A double glazed unit has two panes, and each can be a different type.

For example, many doors use toughened glass for one pane and laminated for the other. That way, you get safe breakage and a pane that stays in place.

Security: is laminated glass worth it?

Security is where the toughened vs laminated glass debate tips clearly one way.

When a burglar breaks a toughened pane, the whole sheet falls out. By contrast, laminated glass has to be hit repeatedly and then torn through. That’s noisy, slow and very off-putting.

For new homes, Secured by Design guidance asks for at least one pane of laminated glass rated to BS EN 356 P1A in doors and easily reached windows. That’s a sensible benchmark for any home.

Where laminated glass matters most

• Glass in or next to a door, close to the handle or lock.
• Rear ground-floor windows hidden from the street.
• Patio and bi-fold doors facing a private garden.
• Any pane you could reach through to open a window.

Still, glass is only part of the picture. Glazing beads should sit on the inside, so the unit can’t be unclipped from outside. Locks, handles and cylinders matter just as much, which is why we often pair new glass with lock and security upgrades.

Toughened vs laminated glass: typical costs

Prices for toughened vs laminated glass depend on size, thickness and what the other pane in the unit is. As a rough guide, here’s how upgrades usually compare on a standard-size double glazed unit:

• Toughened instead of float: typically a modest uplift, often £15–£50 per unit.
• Laminated instead of float: typically £25–£70 per unit.
• Acoustic or higher-security laminated: more again, depending on grade.
• Boarding a broken pane: priced separately, as part of an emergency visit.

For context, a standard replacement sealed unit for a misted window usually costs £80–150 with us. Every sealed unit we fit carries a 10-year manufacturer guarantee, and our workmanship is guaranteed for a minimum of 12 months.

Don’t let a small saving push you toward the wrong glass. In a critical location, safety glass isn’t optional. And for a security pane, the extra cost is tiny next to the cost of a break-in.

Common toughened vs laminated glass mistakes

Most mistakes happen when someone tries to save a few pounds, or when nobody asks what the glass is for. Watch out for these:

• Assuming all double glazing is safety glass. Plenty of older units, especially in upstairs windows, are plain float glass.
• Putting float glass back into a door. It may be cheaper on the day, but it’s unsafe and falls short of good practice.
• Ordering toughened glass, then wanting a cat flap. The hole must be cut before toughening, so a cat flap pane has to be made to order.
• Skipping the laminated pane overhead. Roof lanterns and skylights are safer with laminated glass on the inside.
• Forgetting the pattern. If the old pane was obscure, the new one should match for privacy and looks.

Older properties need extra care. Guildford has plenty of period terraces and cottages, and original low-level door panels are often unmarked float glass. When one of those panes breaks, it’s the ideal moment to upgrade to safety glass.

Quick answers

Is toughened or laminated glass stronger?

In any toughened vs laminated glass comparison, toughened is stronger against impact. However, laminated glass holds together after it breaks, which is better for security and overhead glazing.

Can toughened glass be cut to size?

No. The factory cuts it before toughening, so any change in size means a new pane. That’s why glaziers measure first and fit later.

How can I tell what glass I have?

Look for an etched mark in one corner. Toughened glass often mentions BS EN 12150, while laminated glass may mention BS EN 14449 or BS EN ISO 12543. If there’s no mark at all, assume it’s ordinary float glass.

Does my front door need laminated glass?

It needs safety glass, which can be toughened or laminated. That said, including one laminated pane adds real security for very little extra cost.

Is laminated glass good for noise?

Standard laminated glass helps a little. For a noticeable difference, ask for acoustic laminated glass, which uses a special sound-damping interlayer.

Choosing the right glass

The toughened vs laminated glass decision comes down to one question: what should happen if it breaks? If safe breakage matters most, toughened is ideal. If the pane must stay in place, choose laminated, and in many doors the best answer is both.

We replace broken and cracked glass right across the area. That includes window repairs in Godalming, glazing work in Bramley and every village on our areas we cover page. For a smashed pane, see our emergency glazing service.

The post Toughened vs Laminated Glass: Which You Need and Where first appeared on Windows & Doors Repair Guildford.

The good news is that most handles are easy to replace once you know what to buy. This guide explains the main types, spindle lengths and fixing centres, and how to measure properly.

We’ll also show you how to tell when the real problem is inside the window rather than the handle. That one check saves a lot of wasted money.

Is it the uPVC window handle or the mechanism?

Before buying anything, work out whether the handle itself has failed. Plenty of “broken handles” turn out to be a worn gearbox or a misaligned sash.

Here’s a simple test. Open the window and turn the handle through its full travel. If it’s smooth with the sash open but stiff when closed, the handle is probably fine and the alignment is out.

By contrast, if it feels stiff or crunchy with the window open, the gearbox inside the frame is usually to blame. In that case, a new handle on its own won’t help.

Types of uPVC window handle

Handles look similar, but they work in different ways. So, identify yours before you shop.

Espagnolette (espag) handles

These are the most common type on modern uPVC casements. A square spindle drives a gearbox inside the sash. In turn, the gearbox slides a locking bar that pushes cams into keeps on the frame, locking the window at several points.

Cockspur handles

You’ll find these on older uPVC and aluminium windows. The handle has a hooked “spur” that pulls the sash tight against a wedge or striker on the frame. Cockspurs are handed, meaning left and right versions differ, and the depth of the spur matters.

Tilt-and-turn handles

These control a window that tilts inwards at the top or swings open fully. They often share the same spindle size and fixing centres as espag handles. Even so, check the handle positions match your mechanism.

Inline or offset

An inline handle has a straight base and suits most flush sashes. An offset (or cranked) handle steps outwards, so your fingers clear a raised frame. Offset handles are usually handed, while inline ones generally aren’t.

Locking or non-locking

Most modern handles lock with a key or a push-button. A locking handle stops a child or an intruder turning it. However, many window handle keys are common across brands, so treat the lock as a deterrent rather than high security.

Spindle lengths and fixing centres

Two measurements matter most when you replace a uPVC window handle: the spindle length and the fixing centres.

Spindle length

The spindle is the square metal bar that sticks out of the handle base and drives the gearbox. On most uPVC espag handles it’s 7 mm square. Lengths vary widely, and handles are commonly sold with spindles from around 15 mm to 40 mm or more.

Too long, and the spindle bottoms out, so the handle won’t sit flat. Too short, and it only grips the edge of the gearbox, which can strip it. Some handles therefore come with a cut-to-length spindle or a set of spares, which helps when you’re unsure.

Fixing centres

The fixing centres are the distance between the two screws that hold the handle on. On most uPVC espag handles, this is 43 mm. That’s why so many handles are interchangeable.

Check the base size as well. A handle with a smaller footprint can leave old screw holes or marks on show.

How to measure your spindle

1. Remove the old handle, following the steps below.
2. Measure from the flat underside of the handle base to the tip of the spindle.
3. Measure between the centres of the two screw holes.
4. Note whether the handle is inline or offset, and which hand.
5. Photograph the handle, the gearbox hole and the window from outside.

If the old spindle has snapped off inside the gearbox, don’t guess. Instead, buy a handle with a cut-to-length spindle, or send photos to a repairer first.

How to replace a uPVC window handle

For a standard espag handle, this is a ten-minute job with a screwdriver.

1. Open the window and turn the handle to the open position.
2. Rotate or slide the base cover to reveal two screws. Some handles hide a small grub screw underneath instead.
3. Hold the handle, undo both screws and pull it straight out.
4. Compare the new handle side by side, checking the spindle and centres.
5. Push the new spindle into the gearbox in the same position, then fit the screws.
6. Tighten gently, because overtightening can crack the base or distort the uPVC.
7. Close and lock the window several times, then test the key if it has one.

Always work with the window open. On upstairs windows, keep a firm hold of the sash if it’s windy.

If the screws spin without tightening, the threads in the gearbox may be stripped. That’s a sign the gearbox itself needs attention.

Choosing a new uPVC window handle

Once you know the type and the measurements, the choice comes down to function, looks and quality. Run through this checklist:

• Type: espag, cockspur or tilt-and-turn.
• Shape: inline or offset, and left or right hand if offset.
• Spindle: 7 mm square, at the right length.
• Fixing centres: usually 43 mm, but always check.
• Locking: key, push-button or non-locking.
• Finish: white, black, chrome, gold or anthracite, matched to the rest of the room.
• Build quality: a solid metal body lasts far longer than a lightweight casting.

Older white handles often yellow over time. As a result, a single new one can stand out, so many people replace every handle in a room at once.

A word on security

A locking handle stops someone reaching through a gap to turn it. However, it won’t make a weak window strong. Real security comes from the locking cams, the keeps, internal glazing beads and good glass.

For new homes, Approved Document Q requires doors and easily reached windows to meet a proven security standard. On older windows, a hardware check is a sensible upgrade.

Looking after your new handle

• Clean gently: use a damp cloth and mild soap, never solvents or abrasive pads.
• Lubricate the mechanism: twice a year, add a drop of light oil to the locking cams and the moving bar along the sash edge.
• Turn it fully: always push the handle right into the locked position, rather than stopping halfway.
• Never force it: if it suddenly feels stiff, stop and find out why before something snaps.

A handle that’s treated well should last for many years. If it keeps working loose, ask for the fixing threads and gearbox to be checked during your next uPVC window repair.

uPVC window handle costs

Handles are cheap, but the right part fitted properly matters more than the price tag. Typical UK prices in 2026:

• Standard locking handle: typically £8–£30 for the part.
• Premium or designer handle: typically £30–£60 for the part.
• Handle supplied and fitted: typically £40–£90 for one, less per handle for several.
• Gearbox replacement: typically £80–£160 supplied and fitted.
• Full espag locking mechanism: typically £100–£200, depending on window size.

Prices rise for obsolete or unusual hardware that needs sourcing. With us, there’s no call-out fee and quotes are free, so you’ll know the cost before any work starts.

When to call a professional

Swapping a handle is a reasonable DIY job. However, some situations need a professional:

• A spindle has snapped off inside the gearbox.
• The handle screws spin and won’t tighten.
• The handle is stiff even with the window open.
• A cockspur has no matching striker, or the wedge has worn away.
• The window won’t lock at all, leaving the house insecure.
• The hardware is old or unusual, and nothing seems to fit.

A window that won’t lock is a security risk, so don’t leave it for long. We cover the whole area, including window repairs in Chilworth and Ripley window repairs. See our areas we cover page for the rest, or browse our full list of window and door services.

Quick answers

Are all uPVC window handles the same size?

No. Most espag handles share 7 mm spindles and 43 mm fixing centres. However, spindle length, base shape and handing still vary.

Can I replace a uPVC window handle myself?

Usually, yes. A standard espag handle needs only a screwdriver and about ten minutes. That said, a stiff gearbox or snapped spindle is a job for a professional.

What spindle length do I need?

Match the old one. Measure from the underside of the handle base to the spindle tip. If you’re unsure, buy a handle with a cut-to-length spindle.

Why won’t my new handle lock the window?

The spindle may be the wrong length, or it went in at the wrong angle. If the handle is correct, the gearbox, cams or keeps are usually the cause.

Can I swap a cockspur for an espag handle?

Not on its own. An espag handle needs a gearbox and locking bar inside the sash. So, converting usually means changing the locking mechanism too.

Get the right handle first time

A new uPVC window handle is one of the cheapest, quickest window repairs there is, provided you identify the type and measure the spindle first. If the handle turns smoothly with the window open, a new handle will usually do the job.

If it doesn’t, the problem is deeper in the mechanism. In that case, a repairer can fix the gearbox or keeps, so the new handle lasts. Learn more about our team and how we work.

The post Replacing a uPVC Window Handle: Types, Spindles and Sizing first appeared on Windows & Doors Repair Guildford.

In this letterbox repair guide, we explain how a letterbox works, what usually goes wrong and how to tell a quick fix from a new letter plate. We also cover typical costs, the security upgrades worth paying for, and what to measure before you buy anything.

Most modern front doors in and around Guildford are uPVC or composite, so that’s our main focus. That said, the same checks apply to timber doors too.

How a letterbox works (and why it fails)

A typical uPVC or composite letterbox has four parts. There’s an outer plate with a hinged flap, a sleeve that lines the hole, an inner plate or flap, and the bolts that clamp it all together.

The outer flap is held shut by a small spring. When that spring weakens, rusts or snaps, the flap no longer seals against the plate. As a result, wind pushes it open, cold air pours in, and it bangs every time a lorry goes past.

Other failures are just as common. Plastic hinges crack, chrome finishes pit, fixing bolts work loose, and inner flaps drop off. In addition, thin flaps on cheap letter plates can warp in strong sun on a south-facing door.

Signs your letterbox needs attention

• The flap stays slightly open or flutters when it’s windy.
• You can feel cold air with the back of your hand near the slot.
• It snaps shut so hard that it catches fingers or tears post.
• One end of the plate has dropped, or it wobbles.
• Rust, pitting or flaking shows on the finish.
• The inner flap is missing or hangs loose.
• Post gets stuck halfway, or ends up pushed back out.

Letterbox draughts: cheap fixes that work

A letterbox is a sizeable hole in the busiest door in the house. Even a small gap around a worn flap lets warm air escape, especially on windy days. In fact, the Energy Saving Trust’s draught-proofing advice lists letterbox flaps and brushes among the simple jobs worth doing.

Fit an internal brush or flap

The easiest upgrade is an internal draught excluder. This is a plate with two rows of brushes, or a hinged flap, fitted on the inside of the door. Post pushes through, and the brushes close behind it.

Typically, a decent brush excluder costs £10–£25 and screws on in minutes. However, check the depth first. Some uPVC doors have little room around the slot, so a slim model may be the only one that fits.

Re-seat the outer plate

If you feel air around the edge of the outer plate, rather than through the flap, the plate isn’t clamped tight to the door. Tightening the bolts often cures it. If the plate has warped, though, a new letter plate is the better answer.

When a draught is really a door problem

Sometimes the letterbox gets the blame for a door that has dropped or no longer presses against its seals. If you also feel cold air along the door edges, the letterbox is only part of the story. In that case, our draught and seal repairs usually sort out both at once.

Broken springs: when a letterbox repair means a new plate

A tired spring is the most common reason a letterbox repair is needed. On older brass letter plates, you can sometimes buy a new spring and fit it yourself.

On most modern uPVC and composite letter plates, however, the spring isn’t sold as a separate part. As a result, the practical fix is a new letter plate. The good news is that letter plates come in a handful of standard sizes, so a replacement usually fits the existing hole.

A spring that’s too stiff is a problem too

Springs can fail the other way. A very strong spring snaps the flap shut on fingers and tears post.

It’s hard work for anyone delivering mail, and it wears the flap hinge out faster. A balanced spring, or a soft-close flap, is kinder to everyone.

Quick checks before you replace anything

1. Tighten the fixing bolts from the inside, without overtightening plastic plates.
2. Brush grit and cobwebs out of the flap hinge.
3. Add a drop of light oil to metal hinges, then wipe off the excess.
4. Check that the flap sits flat, because a warped flap won’t seal.
5. Open and close it ten times to see whether it sticks.

If the flap still won’t close after that, the spring or hinge is worn out. At that point, a new plate is the sensible letterbox repair.

Letterbox security: closing the gap burglars use

Letterboxes aren’t just a draught problem. They’re also a known weak point in door security, and there are two main tricks.

The first is letterbox “fishing”, where a thief hooks keys, bags or parcels through the slot.

The second is more serious. On many uPVC and composite doors, pulling the inside handle down opens the door unless it has been locked with the key. Unfortunately, a tool fed through the letterbox can reach that handle.

Habits that cost nothing

• Always lift the handle and turn the key, even when you’re at home.
• Keep keys, car fobs and handbags well away from the door.
• Never hang a spare key on a hook within reach of the slot.
• If you have a thumb-turn lock, check how close it sits to the letterbox.

Hardware that helps

A letterbox cage or guard sits over the inside of the slot. Post drops into it, but arms and tools can’t reach up to the handle. Similarly, a deflector plate stops anyone peering straight into your hallway.

For a bigger upgrade, look for a letter plate tested to TS 008. This is a door hardware standard for letter plate security, designed to stop tools being fed through to the handle or lock. Secured by Design, the police-backed security initiative, refers to it in its door security guidance.

Finally, if you’re replacing the whole door, ask whether you want a letterbox in it at all. A wall-mounted or gate-post box removes the weak point completely.

Types of replacement letter plate

When a letterbox repair turns into a replacement, the choice is mostly about door type, exposure and how much security you want. Here’s how the common options compare.

Height matters as well. The British Standard for letterboxes recommends a slot height of around 700 mm to 1,700 mm above the ground. So, if yours sits near the floor, moving it is worth considering when the door is next replaced.

What to measure before you buy

• Overall width and height of the outer plate.
• Slot size, measured across the opening itself.
• Fixing bolt centres, meaning the distance between the bolt holes.
• Door thickness where the letterbox sits.
• Colour and finish, so it matches the handle and knocker.

Take photos of both sides of the door as well. That way, a tradesperson can usually tell from a quick WhatsApp message whether a standard plate will fit.

Letterbox repair costs in Guildford

Most letterbox jobs are small, so prices are modest. Here’s what a typical letterbox repair involves, with typical UK part prices in 2026:

• Tighten, clean and lubricate: often no parts needed at all.
• Internal brush excluder: typically £10–£25.
• Like-for-like letter plate: typically £15–£60, depending on type and finish.
• TS 008 security letter plate: typically £50–£130.
• Letterbox cage or guard: typically £15–£35.

Fitting a like-for-like plate is usually a short visit, because no cutting is needed. By contrast, cutting a new slot, moving a letterbox or filling an old one costs more, because the door panel must be worked on with care.

With us, there’s no call-out fee and quotes are free. Also, every repair comes with a minimum 12-month workmanship guarantee, so you’re covered if anything works loose.

DIY or call a pro for letterbox repair?

Plenty of letterbox jobs are fine to do yourself. Fitting an internal brush is a screwdriver job. Likewise, tightening bolts or cleaning a sticky hinge takes five minutes.

However, some jobs are better left to a professional:

• Cutting a new letterbox, or changing the size of the slot.
• Moving a letterbox further from the lock or handle.
• Fitting a letterbox into a glazed panel or a composite door skin.
• Filling an old slot so it’s neat and weatherproof.
• Any job where the door also drops, sticks or won’t lock.

Cutting into a composite door or uPVC panel is a one-shot job. Get it wrong, and the panel may need replacing, which costs far more than the letter plate. So, if in doubt, ask first.

We handle letterbox and door repairs right across the area. For example, we regularly cover window and door repairs in Shalford and repairs in Send. You’ll find every other village on our areas we cover page.

Quick answers

How long does a letterbox repair take?

A like-for-like letter plate swap is usually the quickest letterbox repair, because the existing hole is reused. Adding an internal brush takes minutes. Cutting or moving a slot takes longer.

Can I fit a brush instead of a new letterbox?

Yes, as long as the outer flap still closes properly. A brush stops most draughts. However, it won’t fix a flap that hangs open or a plate that rattles.

Will a new letter plate fit my existing hole?

Usually, yes. Most letter plates come in standard sizes. Measure the slot and bolt centres, or send us photos on WhatsApp, and we’ll confirm before ordering.

Are letterbox cages worth it?

For most homes, yes. They’re cheap, they keep post tidy, and they block the reach to the inside handle. Also, they suit families with pets that chew the post.

Do you repair letterboxes in composite doors?

Yes. Composite doors usually take a letter plate with a telescopic sleeve. We’ll match the size and finish, so the door still looks right.

The bottom line

A good letterbox repair is quick, affordable and noticeable the same evening. The hallway feels warmer, the flap stops banging, and the door is harder to attack.

Start with the free checks, add a brush if you need one, and replace the plate once the spring has gone. If the door itself is dropping or draughty, fix that at the same visit. Our local team is happy to advise either way.

The post Letterbox Repair: Fixing Draughts, Springs and Security Gaps first appeared on Windows & Doors Repair Guildford.

These ten questions take five minutes on the phone. Yet they quickly separate careful, honest firms from the ones who’ll cost you more later.

We’ve grouped them by topic and explained what a good answer sounds like. They work for misted units, sticking doors, broken locks and emergency glass alike.

Why the right questions matter for repairs

Repair work is small, varied and often urgent. As a result, it’s easy to agree to the first price you hear, or to let a salesperson talk you into a replacement you don’t need.

The difference can be large. For example, replacing a misted sealed unit usually costs £80–150 with us, while a whole new window often runs to £500–£1,500. A good window repair company tells you which one you actually need, and why.

Asking questions also shows a firm that you know what to expect. Honest tradespeople welcome that, because it makes the job smoother for everyone.

Questions about cost and quotes

1. Do you charge a call-out or inspection fee?

Some firms charge just to turn up, while others don’t. Either can be fair, as long as you know in advance.

A good answer is clear and given before anyone visits. For the record, we don’t charge a call-out fee.

2. Will I get a written, itemised quote before work starts?

A quote should list the parts, labour and any extras, such as boarding or waste disposal. Also, check whether it’s a fixed quote or an estimate, because an estimate can change.

If a firm won’t put a price in writing, walk away. Even a small repair deserves a clear figure.

Also ask what happens if the job turns out bigger once work starts. A good firm stops, explains and agrees any change with you before carrying on.

3. Do you need a deposit, and when do I pay?

For small repairs, you shouldn’t usually need a deposit. However, a modest deposit can be reasonable for made-to-measure parts such as sealed units. Never pay the full amount upfront.

Paying by credit card can add protection. Section 75 of the Consumer Credit Act covers card purchases between £100 and £30,000 if something goes wrong.

Questions about the repair itself

4. Can it be repaired, or does it really need replacing?

This is the most important question of all. Ask why a repair won’t work, if that’s what you’re told. A good window repair company explains both options and lets you choose.

Many common faults are repairable. For instance, misted glass, dropped doors, worn hinges, faulty locks and tired seals rarely need a whole new window or door.

Replacement does make sense sometimes, such as when frames are rotten, badly warped or cracked at the corners. Even then, an honest firm shows you the damage rather than just telling you about it. You can see the kinds of repairs we carry out on our services page.

5. Exactly what parts and glass will you fit?

Vague answers like “new glass” or “a new lock” aren’t enough. For sealed units, ask about Low-E glass, gas fill, and whether that location calls for safety glass. Also ask whether the new unit will match the existing thickness, which is often 24 mm or 28 mm.

For hardware, ask whether the part matches the existing size and finish. On doors, check whether the window repair company will fit an anti-snap cylinder as standard.

6. Who will actually do the work?

Sometimes the person who quotes isn’t the person who turns up. That’s fine, provided you know who’s coming and that they’re experienced with your type of window or door. So, ask directly.

Questions about guarantees and insurance

7. What guarantees do I get, and are they in writing?

There are usually two kinds of guarantee. One covers workmanship, and the other covers parts, such as a sealed unit’s manufacturer guarantee. Ask how long each lasts, what’s excluded and who honours it.

As an example, we give a minimum 12-month workmanship guarantee and a 10-year manufacturer guarantee on sealed units. Whoever you choose, get the terms in writing.

Check the small print too. Some guarantees exclude accidental damage or parts the customer supplied, which is fair, as long as you know.

8. Are you insured?

Public liability insurance covers damage or injury caused during the work. It’s a reasonable thing to ask any trade, and a good firm won’t mind you checking.

For upstairs windows, also ask how they’ll reach the glass safely. On most modern uPVC windows the glazing beads sit inside, so units can often be changed from indoors.

Questions about timing and emergencies

9. How soon can you come, and what happens in an emergency?

For a smashed pane or a door that won’t lock, timing matters more than anything. Ask whether they offer emergency boarding and how quickly they can make the property secure.

For planned repairs, ask about lead times. For example, factories make sealed units to measure, so there’s usually a short wait between measuring and fitting. A good firm explains this clearly, so you’re not left guessing.

Our emergency service runs 24/7. Still, whoever you use, save the number before you need it, because a broken door at midnight is no time to start searching.

Questions about paperwork and regulations

10. Does this job need Building Regulations sign-off?

In England, replacing a whole window or external door must meet Building Regulations. Usually, an installer registered with a competent person scheme self-certifies the work. Otherwise, you’d apply to building control, as explained in the GOV.UK guide to Building Regulations approval.

By contrast, glass-only replacements and hardware repairs generally don’t need notifying. That’s one more reason a repair is often simpler than a replacement.

Listed buildings and conservation areas are different. If your home is protected, check with the council before changing the look of any window or door.

Questions a good window repair company asks you

A conversation should run both ways. In fact, the questions a firm asks you are a good sign of how carefully it works. Expect to hear some of these:

• When did the problem start, and is it getting worse?
• Can you send photos of the window or door, inside and out?
• Is it uPVC, aluminium, timber or composite, and roughly how old?
• Does the window or door still lock securely tonight?
• Which floor is it on, and is there easy access and parking?
• Is this part of an insurance claim?

Photos are especially useful. A clear picture of the spacer bar, the hinge or the lock often lets a repairer identify the part before visiting. That means fewer wasted trips and a more accurate quote.

If a firm asks nothing and quotes a price anyway, be cautious. Without the details, it’s guessing, and guesses tend to grow on the day.

What a good window repair company looks like

The answers matter, but so does the way they’re given. Here’s a quick comparison of good and bad signs.

Your rights help too. Under the Consumer Rights Act 2015, a trader must carry out a service with reasonable care and skill. In addition, if you agree a contract in your home, you usually have 14 days to cancel.

That said, if you ask for work to start within those 14 days, you may have to pay for what’s been done. Citizens Advice explains these rights in plain English.

Comparing window repair company quotes

For a small job, one clear quote from a firm you trust is often enough. However, for bigger work, compare two or three quotes, and make sure they cover the same thing.

• Ask every firm the same questions, and note their answers.
• Compare the parts and glass specified, not just the total price.
• Check guarantee lengths and what each one covers.
• Read reviews for detail, such as the type of job and how problems were handled.
• Send photos first, because a good firm can often give useful advice before visiting.

A low price isn’t automatically a bad sign. Even so, if one quote is far cheaper than the rest, find out what’s been left out.

Quick answers

How many quotes should I get for a window repair?

For a small repair, one clear written quote is usually fine. For larger jobs, two or three quotes help you judge value.

Is the cheapest quote a bad sign?

Not always. However, check that it covers the same parts, glass and guarantees as the others before you decide.

Should I pay a deposit for a window repair?

For small repairs, usually not. For made-to-measure parts, a modest deposit can be fair, but never pay the full amount upfront.

Does a window repairer need to be in a competent person scheme?

Not for glass-only or hardware repairs. Registration matters when whole windows or doors are replaced, because that work must meet Building Regulations.

What should a repair guarantee cover?

It should cover the workmanship and the parts fitted, for a stated period, in writing. Sealed units often carry a separate manufacturer guarantee.

Book with confidence

The right window repair company answers these ten questions clearly and without pressure. Just as importantly, it asks you sensible questions back. Ask them every time, compare like with like, and get everything important in writing.

We’re happy to answer every one of them before we book a visit, whether you’re in Guildford, Godalming or Shalford. See our areas we cover page for the rest, browse our window and door services, or read more about our team.

The post Choosing a Window Repair Company: 10 Questions to Ask First first appeared on Windows & Doors Repair Guildford.

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